Southwest Sri Lanka

Visas

It is best to get your Electronic Travel Authorisation Visa (ETA) prior to arrival (US$36). For some nationalities it can be obtained on arrival, but to avoid time and hassle do it before. In 2019 Sri Lanka trialed some visa free travel, but a bombing and Covid put this on hold. Check the latest news before booking a trip.

Getting There

Sri Lankan Airlines are the national carrier and are surfboard-friendly. Many European routes go via the Middle East with Emirates, Etihad, Qatar, etc. Asia, Australia and USA are serviced by Singapore, Malaysian, Qantas, Cathay Pacific, Korean Air, Air China, Air India and Japan Airlines.

There are virtually no useful domestic flights and the huge Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport near the south coast port of Hambantota is dubbed "The world's emptiest airport". Hikkaduwa is now less than 2h from the airport using the new 4 lane highway and Weligama is a 3hr transfer. Prices for transfers have skyrocketed since the global fuel crisis.

Getting Around

There’s no need to rent a car. A taxi from the airport is min ±rs20,000/$50o/w. If you’re on a budget trip then you can take a packed train from $1, but it will be a nightmare with surfboards. No need for personal transport in Hikkaduwa where tuk-tuks are so cheap and plentiful. Renting a 125cc motorbike costs from $5/d but prices go up with demand. A motorbike is useful in the Weligama zone where the breaks are far more spread out. Take a board-bag with a shoulder strap, because the scooters don't have board racks. Drive on the left, carry an international license and beware the psychotic bus drivers who rule the roads and race each other to collect passengers! Bicycles are a safer bet during the day.

Accommodation

Hikkaduwa has such a myriad of accommodation from basic dorm style to luxury beachfront. Prices at the lower end are surprisingly high, considering the often poor standard of accommodation. Shopping around when you get there wont save much money, but may help avoid the worst places. Mia's Place offers newly built rooms on the jungle side of the main road. Legendary expat Lyndon Mason runs the Kailash Yoga Studio, with comfortable, clean, self-catering rooms in the low to mid-price range, just across the road from Main Reef. There are a number of high-rise beachfront hotels to cater to the package tourist in the mid-high price range of $100/n.

The Kogala to Weligama coastline has seen huge amounts of coastal development, particularly in the last 5yrs as businesses rush to service the growing surf market. As many new surf camps pop up, some old ones have folded including the well-known Sion Surf Camp. As many beginners look to combine their accommodation with accredited, quality surf coaching, then 2 operators stand out from the crowd of surf schools that line the coast road. Ticket to Ride offer top level coaching for all abilities, while staying in comfortable A/C rooms, right across the road from Sticks surf break. Surf School Sri Lanka are situated jungle side behind Kabalana and also offer excellent course and accommodation packages. Kima are a reputable, international teaching outfit who are based in Weligama close to the beachbreaks. Surfing Wombat is run by women with good vibes for groups of women learning the ropes.

The food in Sri Lanka is phenomenal - curries, plenty of seafood and fresh fruit from $5 for a large meal. Notable Hikkaduwa restaurants include Main Reef Beach Restaurant or post surf munchies in front of Beachbreak at Summer Lanka (who also do basic beachfront accommodation).

Weligama has broader choice and some excellent ex-pat restaurants, like Rise, the Italian-run pizza house that gets rave reviews. Top of the recommendations is Big Mighty (behind Gas Stations), where the Kiwi owner serves great burgers and ice creams. Ribs at Kabalana is a BBQ meat-fest, or try any of the local eateries that line the road from The Rock to Ahangama. Check out the French Bakery in front of Animals when you get sick of curries. Owner Mati will always be out front surfing.

Activities

Visit colonial Gallé, or one of the many beautiful temples nearby like the Sri Shylathalaramaya Temple behind Narigama. Hikkaduwa has a reputation for surprisingly good nightlife and the all night parties rotate between 3 clubs, including original surf shop owner Mambo's place right on the beach. You can hand feed turtles up towards the harbour in Hikkaduwa and also swim with them at Wijaya Beach near Unawatuna. There is diving on reefs and wrecks offshore at Hikkaduwa, Unawatuna, Mirissa & Matara. Kitesurfing is possible most afternoons, but most of it is done on the west coast north of Colombo at Kandakuliya. Midigama has a skate park.

Hazards & hassles

Hikkaduwa's reputation for localism is from decades ago and the new crop of locals are far friendlier than their predecessors. Expect the odd drop-in and clueless beginners clogging up the Main Reef and Beachbreak as well. Both these spots have shallow sections where the sharp reef will cut feet quite easily if you aren't careful. Same goes for lots of the better waves in the south and urchins are a constant threat. Jellyfish and their larvae (incorrectly referred to as sea lice for generations) are regular visitors, particularly in the SW monsoon. Strong sunshine all day requires plenty of protection - a surf hat is a good idea. Beach erosion is a constant issue.

Handy Hints

Many “surf shops”, but not many real outlets as getting foreign stock becomes increasingly difficult. Cheeky Monkeys, Salty Swamis and Dylans have a few shops across the country, plus there are local indy shops and basic surf schools line the sands of the main beaches where battered boards, pop-outs and soft-tops can be rented for $3/h or $5/day. Coaching quality is highly variable so stick to experienced outfits like Ticket to Ride (who do surf instructors courses) or Surf School Sri Lanka. Hippie Surf School in Hikkaduwa are above average with qualified instructors. Learn a few words of Sinhala and you’ll be greeted with smiles. Leave behind wax and leashes for the locals - these items are becoming increasingly expensive and hard for the shops to import.

Due to global pandemic, Visas, Getting There, Getting Around or Accommodation information and pricing may have changed. Always check Government Travel Advice before travelling.