Southeast Sri Lanka

Visas

It is best to get your Electronic Travel Authorisation Visa (ETA) prior to arrival (US$36). For some nationalities it can be obtained on arrival, but to avoid time and hassle do it before. In 2019 Sri Lanka trialed some visa free travel, but a bombing and Covid put this on hold. Check the latest news before booking a trip.

Getting There

(See SW Sri Lanka Getting There).

Daily flights with board-friendly Sri Lankan Airlines from Europe, Asia, Australia and USA along with Singapore, Malaysian, Qantas, Cathay Pacific, Korean Air, Air China, Air India and Japan Airlines. Many routes with the Arabian Airlines - Etihad Airways, Qatar Airways, Emirates, Saudi Air, etc. Check each one for board policy.

Colombo/Bandaranaike International Airport is in coastal Negombo, 45min north of the crazy Colombo traffic, which now has a bypass. Arugam Bay is 416km (260mi) from Colombo Airport, which is a 7-8h drive away (from rs43k/$119 o/w by private van or 38k/$105 for a car). Apparently you are not allowed to have surfboards strapped on the roof of normal cars if using the new highway. Bus is 12-20hrs, twice daily ($5). Break up the scenic journey with an overnight stop in the “Hill Country”, Kandy, or Ella/Haputale.

Getting Around

There’s no need to rent a car or van with driver, since both can be quite expensive from $50/d. Renting a 125cc motorbike costs $5-15/d, but tuk-tuks are much easier, cheaper and the drivers know the tracks and trails to get to the breaks.

Boat rides are tempting, but cost 4 times more and take twice as much time; A-Bay to Okanda is 2h by boat, but 1h by tuk-tuk.

Take a board-bag with a shoulder strap, because the scooters don't have board racks. Roof straps are also worth carrying as tuk-tuk string can be pretty ropey! Drive on the left, carry an international license and beware the wildlife wandering onto the road. Army and police checkpoints are common, but usually leave tourists alone. Bicycles are a great way to get around town or jump in a tuk-tuk from one end of town to the other for rs200/$0.50.

The walk out to A-Bay point can be long and hot, especially if coming down the beach from the north end of town. Many surfers take food and water supplies and leave their bag in Ranjani's place, the dilapidated huts in front of the wave. Same applies to all breaks in this region, because there are no shops or restaurants at any of them.

Accommodation

Guest-houses line the 1.5km beachfront, starting at $20/n for a room with a fan. More spacious and exclusive options on the other side of the main street like medium-priced Hideaway starts at $55/n room only, with more expensive but gastronomic food. Away from the main street hustle

Food is great, with a little less variety than the south coast but maybe a bit cheaper for local dishes like the impressive vegetarian dhosas (Balaji). Restaurants barbecue fish and crustaceans out the front (check for freshness!), plus there are a few pizzerias. Tom & Jerry do good local and western fusion food including sushi. Hideaway has a reputation for haute cuisine.

Activities

Yala National Park is the largest wildlife sanctuary; enter from Okanda (cheaper than Tissama), but you need to rent a vehicle, driver and pay permits. There are lots of group tours you can book onto in A-Bay and head off into Kumana National Park for the afternoon. Many Hindu shrines close by like Katara-gama. Inland tourist sites include the Sigiriya rock citadel, a 1500-year-old fortress built on a volcanic plug that locals call the 8th Wonder of the World. The Kandy Perahera Festival focuses on an ancient relic claiming to be Buddha's tooth, or climb conical Adam's Peak to see Buddha's footprint. A-Bay lacks the party scene of the south coast, with everybody having to drink in the rickety Siam View Brew Pub at the bottom of town.

Hazards & hassles

Very little shade at most spots, so take enough water and make sure your tuk-tuk driver will pick you up after surfing! Be careful around any lagoons or rivers as crocodiles are everywhere, including in the rice paddies. Jellyfish can be blown in in large numbers, making it impossible to surf. There is a pecking order at the main point and some of the expats are extremely greedy, usually returning directly to the inside of the peak after walking back up the beach. The locals rip and take their fair share, but are generally good-natured and tolerant towards respectful visitors who can surf and not get in the way of riders. Unskilled surfers out of their depth are one of the biggest hazards in this overcrowded line-up. July-Sept are the most crowded months.

Handy Hints

There are cash points on the main street. Some businesses like taking foreign currency in light of the recent political and economic upheaval. Dillons Surf Shop is the best outlet for quality equipment run by local ripper Praneeth.

Due to global pandemic, Visas, Getting There, Getting Around or Accommodation information and pricing may have changed. Always check Government Travel Advice before travelling.