Sumatra

Where to surf in Sumatra

Sumatran waters offer a feast of the world's tastiest waves, served up on countless offshore islands and even on the mainland provinces beyond the shadow of these prolific, perfect, wave-creating chains. Ask a cross-section of competent surfers "Where in the world would you most like to go surfing?", and the answer would invariably be the Mentawai Islands. This remote, equatorial chain is strung out on the front line of the Indian Ocean swell barrage and possesses an embarrassment of riches when it comes to perfect reef bathymetry and flaccid, wavering winds.

Aceh

Mainland

The NW Indonesian province of Aceh is synonymous with the devastating 2004, ocean floor earthquake and subsequent massive tsunami. Reefs were thrust skyward, killing surf spots like fish out of water, but also new rides appeared along the devastated coast. Within this large western extremity of Indonesia are 3 distinct surf zones; Aceh Besar where perfect off-season A-frames hit a concentration of reefs close to the capital. Aceh Jaya is a lightly surfed coastline full of potential away from the madding crowd.

Simeulue and the Banyak Islands shadow the coast directly S of Ujong Karang, the last break in the Aceh Jaya zone, effectively blocking the S-W swells starting from Meulaboh all the way to Singkil. The coast is mainly straight sandy beaches with the odd muddy rivermouth bringing sediment and run-off from inland – hardly attractive when some of the best reefs in the world are a couple of hours sail away.

Offshore

Finally, there's the Aceh administered Simeulue and Banyak Islands that still maintain a bit of a frontier status, avoiding the charter boat congestion of the Ments through a combination of lower consistency and smaller waves. Land camps have proliferated on Simeulue as spot density has increased offering a different kind of surf trip from the standard surf charter.

Sumatera Utara

Mainland

If you get stuck in the unlovely port of Sibolga, the offshore islands around Musala probably wont have any waves, but are a beautiful place to hang out. Further southeastwards will pick up more SW swell entering the gap between Nias and the Telos, but it hits steep grey sandy beaches and muddy rivermouths, so you've got to ask yourself why are you bothering with the Sumatran coast when the offshore islands are so good. In the Mandailing Natal Regency, there are a number of tiny islets just offshore with fringing reef that look like they could be worth exploring and are in range for the local fishing boats. Start at Natal Beach and head north.

Offshore

Nias and the Hinako Islands need no introduction, as Lagundri Bay is the original tropical paradise found. Once again, seismic activity has had a direct effect on the waves here, with the scorecard well in the black since Lagundri Bay has raised its reef and its game after the last ‘quake. Out on the tiny islands of Asu and Bawa, the lefts and rights are still reeling off, albeit shortened, suiting skilled, adventurous surfers looking for a bit more of a challenge.

There are more lefts and rights to be sniffed out on and between the other Hinako islands like Hamutala, but Imana and Heruanga's reefs are flawed and not often surfed.

Often referred to as the Telos, the 51 Batu Islands have dodged the bulk of the Nias and Mentawai crowds for much the same reason as the Banyaks. There are fewer big name spots, wave heights are generally a bit lower and the best set-ups often require stronger swells, usually from the rarer WSW direction. However, consistent, year-round, headhigh surf can always be found with plenty of fun, easier line-ups that cater to most tastes and abilities. A few high-end surf camps have opened, but for independent travellers, this place is a mission without a boat to get around and it has a reputation for malaria and other diseases.

Most of the waves are found on the smaller islands to the NW, so check around and in between the larger islands of Telo, Sipika and the more exposed reefs of Pulau Sigata. Tanamasa keeps its breaks close to its chest, including the region's best barrel, while on Tanahbala, there are some less-frequented breaks on this Jurassic Park-like island, with longer travelling times between the spots. The camps all have their own names for the spots, so it depends on who you travel with, but there is no doubt this group holds some excellent waves and since the equator runs through here, winds are rarely a problem with plenty of glass and a spot for all wind/swell combos.

Sumatera Barat and Riau

Mainland

The Sumatran coastline behind the Mentawais should be a flat zone, yet it defies convention by regularly cobbling a wave together around the busy Padang coast.

The hulking mass of Siberut is the largest island in the Mentawai chain and has only been lightly surfed by long-range charter crews grabbing an opportunistic wave on the way to the Nias area. That means spots on the backside are more often seen from the northern tip at Tanjung Sigep, down to the impossibly sheltered Teluk Tabekat and out to the headland at Sikabaluan, but most will pass by like ships in the night. A good deal of the SW-facing coast is straight line reefs, exposed and messed up by wind and swell, but a few obvious jinks in the coast could produce a left or two at Tanjungs Sakaladat, Sataerataera and Simasuket. Many captains will have a few spots sussed for certain conditions and there are some mellow breaks in the Playgrounds area that get ridden like Taileleo, a fun mal slide facing south, Peipei rights, Pearlers peak nestled behind Masokut and a righthander round the backside near the Muara harbour.

The freshwater freak known as the Bono lies on the Sumatran east coast of Riau Province.

Offshore

A Mentawai Islands surf-trip has always revolved around boat access, even if staying at one of the growing number of land camps, who whizz clients near and far in their high-speed, small craft. Meanwhile a fleet of 50+ charter boats ply the waters of this wave-blessed chain, which consists of two regions; Playgrounds and the Southern Mentawai Islands. It is important to recognise that while there are 40-60 named breaks in the Mentawai Islands, many more are out there, being surfed by experienced captains who know what spots work, in any given conditions.

Benkulu and Lampung

Mainland

Benkulu Province breaks free of the Mentawais shadow and has a few set-ups along with a lot of grey-sand beachbreak.

The coral reefs and bays start again, signalling the beginning of the great Lampung zone, which many refer to as Krui, the main surf town in the region. With waves like the Sumatran Pipeline and long lefthanders flying over the shapely coral reef, this is a core surf destinations for intermediate to advanced surfers, looking to spend longer periods in affordable surf camps and local accommodations.

Offshore

Sitting way offshore in splendid isolation is Enggano with a rich assortment of coral reefs in fan formations and tiny atolls, slicing the S-W swells into some juicy bits, albeit plagued by slightly stronger winds.