Philippines

Where to surf in Philippines

A glance at a map of the 7,107 islands of the Philippines could leave you feeling dizzy over the apparent possibilities this country offers to surfers. Drawing parallels to Indonesia, the quality of the reefs is similar, the climate much the same and the beaches as beautiful. It differs only in swell consistency, which is seasonally reliant on the monsoons and typhoons. Famous for the short sweet barrels of Cloud 9 on the main surfing island of Siargao, there are also plenty of easier waves for intermediates and longboarders in most of the zones, making the Philippines a good scene for surfers of mixed abilities.

Luzon

Heading north from Manila on Central Luzon’s west coast sandy beachbreaks stretch for miles between major rivermouths at Pundaquit, where Capone Island has quality reef and beachbreaks, Botolah and San Felipe, attracting city surfers in typhoon or SW-NW swells – as opposed to the regular NE pattern.

In the south of Ilocos region, fringing reefs offer empty possibilities around Bolinao. North of the Lingayen Gulf the reefs continue into La Union and Ilocos Sur Provinces where the bulk of west Luzon's well known points and reefs can be found in a 200km stretch.

There is more surf to sniff out in Ilocos Norte, where the north coast of Luzon picks up NE swell head-on, but it is the reefbreaks around the resorts at Pagapud (Blue Lagoon) that occasionally go off in typhoon swell and SW winds. Winter onshores bring plenty of messed up swell which can wrap around the west coast at places like Saud beach.

There’s 90kms of grey sand beach fringing the northern part of Cagayan Valley region. Check the jetty at Aparri and the reefs of Gonzaga. The coast of Cagayan and Isabela provinces are a virtual wilderness, with the rough coastal road often washed out, but surf possibilities are high thanks to direct NE swell exposure, while hopefully finding protection from the following wind.

Baler Bay is the birthplace of surfing in the Philippines, with US servicemen on Luzon's west coast, and actors dressed as servicemen at Baler on Luzon's east coast, this is where the famous surf scene from Apocalypse Now was shot. The film crew left their boards and the locals took to the water, creating a little surf scene and the first national champion.

Baler is just a small slice of the exposed coast of Aurora Province, there are further waves at Diarabasin and Dingalan.

In The large islands off Central Luzon's Quezon province filter much of the swell from the north and east, so by default should have some potential along the north-facing reefs.

The Bicol region is home to Camarines Norte province – popular with Manilla weekend warriors who flock to Bagasbas Beach to learn while the Mercedes rivermouth near Daet provides a more challenging righthander over reef. Camarines Sur sees shallower offshore waters cut potential and it is shielded to the east by Catanduanes.

Catanduanes is where the regal rights of Majestics are awaited by patient barrel hunters.

Visayas

The Eastern Visayas represent a real discovery zone with some surfers around Borongan and Calicoan Island, but there are plenty of other waves to search for.

The Balicuatro Islands of Northern Samar province are hard to get around without a boat and accommodation close to the waves is lacking, but amongst the unusual rock formations on Biri there are rights at Geron, Magasang and if you spot a perfect barrel, pinch yourself because you are not dreaming. On the north-facing coastline, Tamburusan Beach at Catarman is a palm fringed, sandy beach, surfable with southerly or westerly breezes wafting in from the San Bernardino Strait. Further east, Onay Beach in Laoang is a similar inconsistent and soft beachbreak, but check the rights off Cahayagan Island.

Eastern Samar province centres on Borangan City and stretches south to Guiuan. Relaxing beachbreaks can be found at Bato and somewhere south of Llorente and north of Calicoan is Jelly Beans, a long hollow left, breaking over a flat shelf of Philippine reef.

For those looking to ride bigger, powerful waves, take a boat from Guiuan on a long journey out to Suluan Island and into the jaws of Jurassic Point.

In the South China Sea region of Miraropa, the long, thin flank of Palawan does get some small N swell action with light offshore winds for 2-4 months (Nov-Feb) of the year. North is better so check around El Nido where spots like Mike’s Point, Calaan, Nacpan and Duli are ridden by a few locals and visitors lucky enough to score a headhigh swell.

Mindanao

In the Caraga region Surigao del Norte province is home to the short sweet barrels of Cloud 9 which lie on the main surfing island of Siargao.

It’s worth remembering the backside of the Siargao accepts N-NE swells and offers E wind protection at remote reefs like Tangbo, Rizal, Dahican Island and the fringes of the Yohoho islands. The Bucas Grande islands have waves in stronger swells. Check Socorro and head south.

On Mindanao island Surigao del Sur province holds some serious peelers on rocky shelves and fringing reefs, plus the enigmatic Doot Poktoy, a rare rivermouth right that often attracts Mundaka comparisons.

A myriad of potential exists on small offshore islands and major landmasses alike, throughout Mindanao's east coast provinces of Caraga and Davao. South of this there is sand-bottom action for local surfers at Tandag, Tago and Dahican Beach.