French Polynesia

Where to surf in French Polynesia

French Polynesia is perfectly centred in the South Pacific, free from any swell shadowing and extremely welcoming to swells from either hemisphere. Once again, the numbers are staggering when simplified; six island chains made up of 130 islands spread over 2.5 million square kilometres of primo wave real estate, roughly equivalent to the size of Europe.

Society Islands

Best known are the Society Islands. The islands of the Windward Group, namely Tahiti and Moorea, are world famous for fierce waves like Teahupoo and Temae. The north and west coasts are rich in reefbreaks, gyrating down the many deepwater passes, offering a range of lefts and rights with varying degrees of difficulty. There is also the occasional opportunity to ride fun reef, point and black sand beachbreak type waves on the windward coast at little bays like Tiarei and Faaone, while the offshore motus could be holding for those with a boat and the right angles of swell and wind.

The Leeward Group sits only 200km west of Tahiti. Huahine and Raiatea/Tahaa are blessed with multiple openings in the fringing reef but have a reputation for fierce localism. Maupiti and Bora Bora only have one pass each – outriggers, canoes and SUP’s rule the inshore waters.

Tuamotu Archipelago and Gambier Islands

Heading to the north of the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Archipelago barely breaks the surface with a procession of ringlet atolls that Darwin correctly guessed were the tips of old volcanoes. Western Tuamotu has been shown to hold seriously good surf. Don’t discount an atoll just because it is surrounded by others, because the swell seems to find a way in, as proven by the reef passes on the west side of Apataki.

It makes sense that the impossibly remote central and eastern Tuamotu atolls and the far-flung Gambier Islands are blessed with quality surf. Mere mortals will never get this far in some of the most dangerous waters in the Pacific, where big sharks hunt in the passes and the rips take Herculean shoulders just to stay in position, in order to catch waves that will often test even the best riders. Of course avoid Mururoa and Fangataufa atolls in the SE corner, the site for the now infamous nuclear testing program run by the French Government.

Austral Islands

The seven Austral Islands sink deep to the south, leaping the Tropic of Capricorn in a stormier, angry sea. Those seeking adventure will be relatively disappointed and only the twin passage on the south coast of Tubuai will tame the booming SE to SW swells into some manageable rides.

Further atolls flung like quoits lead to the cliff bound Pitcairn and Henderson islands, which aren’t viable surf destinations.

Marquesas Islands

Skipping to the northeastern frontier of French Polynesia, the Marquesas couldn’t be more different as monolithic basalt mountains rise from the submarine volcanic plateau and an arid, rocky landscape meets the South Equatorial Current. Plunging cliffs line deeply indented bays, where rocky beaches like Hanaiapa and Puamau are good starting points for exploration on the north coast of Hiva Oa and Atuona beach on the south. Ua Pou has a fun peak in Hakahau Bay, while kids bodysurf beside the wharf at Hakahetau and wind exposed Nuku Hiva picks up E swell at the pristine, white-sand beachbreak of Haatuatua. There is a small local surf population on all the islands who may choose to show visitors what the Marquesas have to offer to dedicated travellers willing to go to the ends of the earth.