Chile

Where to surf in Chile

Sandwiched between the lofty spine of the Andes and the limitless blue fetch of the South Pacific, Chile is forging a reputation as the ultimate cold-water destination for waves of power and consequence. Thick waves are the norm along the coastline of this thin country that reaches from Peru to the polar regions of Antarctica and measures a mind-boggling 6,435km (4000 mi) of Pacific coastline, without adding the offshore islands of Juan Fernández, Salas y Gómez, Desventuradas and Rapa Nui (Easter Island). Given such scope, it’s little wonder that discoveries have been filtering through to the outside world of hard-barrelling slabs, long-loping points and huge tow-in monsters. Recent limelight has shone through the pro surfing competition in Arica up north and the threat of environmental disasters down south, but the real appeal is in the awesome waves that constantly pound this endless coastline.

Arica

Since the advent of the barrel-rich Rip Curl Search pro surfing contest at Arica in 2007, more people are aware that Chile has some quality waves. El Gringo and El Buey burst onto the scene, from a tight urban surf zone in an industrialised northern city that already has a healthy surfing population.

Tarapaca

Wander south out of town and a blank 180km canvas of gnarled, eroded cliffs dip their toes in the cool current, broken by the occasional alluvial plain of dark desert sand deposited by a canyon carving river. Checking these rivermouths may uncover some thumping beachbreaks at Caleta Camarones, Caleta Chica and near the rocky bays of Pisagua. There are probably some good short slabs and rocky pocket beaches that fire on just the right conditions, but to find them would take luck and lots of time, better spent elsewhere.

There is barely a break in the bristling desert cliffs before hitting the short coastal flats of Iquique, where thunderous tubes unload over the unforgiving reefs that scoop up the SW swell and amplify it. These lurching, spitting waves have dictated that Chile has a far greater proportion of bodyboarders to take on the challenging spots that would otherwise go virtually unridden.

There are some beachbreaks south of town on the narrow coastal strip, but the rocky coves and flat grey-brown sands offer nothing of any quality down to the airport. Commercial operations load up ores onto ocean tankers via large piers and terminals, between long, lonely beaches that stretch out beside the ocean hugging Ruta 1 (Route 1).

Antofagasta

Barrancon is a slab peak with good rights about 34kms north of Tocopilla, where shorepound hits the city beaches in the shadow of the industrial port and power station. Along this coast there are other waves that are on clear display from the road, but surfers tend to stick to the known spots.

Antofagasta starts setting the scene for wild, rugged coastline and continues the power theme from Arica and Iquique. There is a bit more variety to the set-ups with close to shore reef slabs being complimented by some rocky points and beachbreaks.

Beyond the gasping chambers of Nuluhaga, plunging cliffs return and the fabulous Ruta 1 struggles with the mountainous terrain, so heading inland to the 5 and by-passing the next 50kms is a good idea. From Caleta el Cobre south to the beginning of the Atacama region, there are going to be some rocky opportunities when the swell steps up, but you have got to want it bad to overcome the steep access and isolation problems.

Atacama & Coquimbo

Northern Atacamas is still deep in the desert and the arid, rocky coastline has plenty to offer as it flattens out a bit where the Andes split away from the Chilean Coastal Range and coastal access improves markedly with long, grey-white sands holding below average beachbreaks at playas Blanca, Chanaral, Flamenco and the protected bays just west of Copiapo.

Atacama and Coquimbo regions number III (3) and IV (4) (out of 15 regions) on the north to south regional numbering system (usually denoted by Roman numerals) and are also known collectively as the Norte Chico region. Most just hit the growing surf/holiday town of Totoralillo, thanks to the concentration of waves and facilities.

Strong winds and waves buffet the exposed southern flank of Coquimbo, sea fog is common and the roads through the Fray Jorge national park are slow and rough, but there are some waves at the ends of the coastal access tracks. Talcaruca, El Sauce and the rivermouth of the Rio Limari are worth checking in small to medium swells as anything big overpowers the coast here. Size is not a problem for the reef peak at El Teniente where the long, high tide rights are usually empty. Massive wind turbines dot the coast southwards – never a good sign for surfers.

Valparaiso

Subtle changes see more scalloped bays and fun sandy beaches for beginners and longboarders as you enter the Valparaiso region. Check near the ports of Los Vilos, the crowded beaches of Los Molles, peaks at Pichicuy, lefts at Salinas de Pullally or Papudo and the wide-open beachbreaks at Cachagua.

This heralds the beginning of the Valparaiso and O'Higgins region, including the most famous surf town in Chile, Pichilemu. The large coastal cities of Valparaiso and San Antonio are the closest to the land-locked capital, Santiago and get very busy during holidays, but are blessed with plenty of strong beaches and reefs.

O'Higgins

South of San Antonio, there is a shift in the topography that begins to favour left points and rivermouths in the southern corners of the bays and none are better than the ultimate South American pointbreak, Punta de Lobos. Small and fun or large and life threatening are both on offer here and the boom to bust seasonal variation is being conquered as Pichilemu establishes itself as Chile’s surf city.

Beyond Lobos lies a hatful of southern corner rivermouths connected to sensitive strands of hard-pack grey sand with rocky fringes extend for over 100kms, beckoning the inquisitive to the rolling green countryside.

Maule

Constitución is the next big coastal town at the mouth of the river and region VII Maule and apparently marks the southern limit of the old Inca Empire. There is a real concentration of waves around the town beaches, which can have some decent lefts on windless days, but the smoke from the cellulose factory and industrial backdrop is quite a deterrent.

Maule also hides some big waves, like the outer reef of Santos del Mar and there are even some righthand points, thanks to the surf-friendly geology. The NW orientation of the ensuing coast southwards allows plenty of scope for protected lefts in the lee of the headlands (check around Loanco).

Biobio

The Biobio region (VIII) begins at Pullay. Rivermouth sculpted pointbreaks are the main attraction and while some tried to keep them secret, recent environmental and natural disasters have firmly put the fickle lefthander Buchupureo on the map. It seems a nonsense that this remote region needs to be protected from the tourist hordes and crowd factors around here are comparatively light, despite the fact that Concepción is one of the largest coastal conurbations in Chile.

Southern Chile

Beyond the city and the heavy reef at Lebu starts the big Southern Chile adventure.

Rapa Nui

Although it is 3,850km (2406mi) away from mainland Chile, (Easter Island) shares with Juan Fernández Islands the constitutional status of "special territory" of Chile, granted in 2007. Administratively, the island is a province (Isla de Pascua Province) of the Valparaíso Region.